Santa Rosa Jáuregui should be the town on every visitor to everyone who has ever even considered Mexico's mind. For some reason, there are only 14,400 inhabitants, it is not the seat of any sort of organization or office, nor is it represented by any professional sports team. Of all the housing booms in the world, it is shocking to me that there has not been one here.
I have started riding again! From Puerto Escondido, Alex and I took a 220km night bus over the twisty roads through the mountains to Oaxaca City. In Oaxaca City I ate as much as I could, and got on a plane at 6am after 24 hours in the city. I got on a plane because my mom broke her foot. Like any self-conscious only child, I went back to help her. I spoke to my parents before I left Oaxaca and they said they were going to get a home aid. I said, "don't do that, you have a son." She's fine now. I hope she doesn't resent that assessment. At the time of her casting she needed someone to drive her to and from work and to run errands. So this is what I did. Between the hours of 9 and 5, I had lots of catching up to do.
It had been two years exactly (crazy!) since I had left Berkeley, CA to roll around the world. With no prior intention of returning until this spring, no one was expecting me. I got to surprise a lot of people. The first was Haley sitting in a cafe. She had unknowingly notified me of her location, thanks to some sort of online communication technology. I cruised into the cafe where she was doing something important, and walked by her three times before I ordered coffee. I took my coffee and sat outside at a seat in plain view from her seat. She was so consumed in her important work that she didn't see me. So I walked in again - she was sitting right next to the door - and closed the door loudly or something to get her attention. Finally she looked up and found it weird that someone had just walked in and was staring at her. She stared back, then I winked one of my worst winks. She yelped softly and I was back. I explained everything and she put off her important stuff for later. Then we called a dear friend Gabe who happened to be sleeping in Haley's and his bed, and I crawled into bed with him. Gabe urged me closer. I explained everything and we resolved to play basketball the next day. During the basketball match, which had been organized with dear friend Tim, I was able give Tim a whale of a surprise, then proceeded to lose again and again at basketball. I had never surprised anyone, and it was fun. I'll be able to do it again when I get back for real.
I was in Berkeley for a month. I never struggled to occupy myself. I saw family, phoned people I hadn't spoken to for two years, ate pizza and chicken cheddar sandwiches. I changed my underwear daily! I hiked and hiked in Tilden and Redwood Park, and even discovered Rodeo Gulch with AC Delmer. The last time I saw AC was in Leon, Spain, which is where I did the first blog post for this trip. It was a vacation within a vacation. I was unemployed and not looking for work. It was a strange feeling, a sort of time outside of itself. All abstract aside, it was pure joy. I hope it was a sneak preview of what's to come when I eventually do return. That said, there's still a long way to go.
Which is why I found myself yesterday in Santa Rosa Jáuregui, which is famous for its carnitas. Holé Molé what fine carnitas. I had asked people in Querétaro (which is where I started this trip yesterday) what regional foods they´d recommend. Carnitas they said. I struggled mightily to contain my emotions and asked wherefore art ye best carnitas. Santa Rosa they said. I looked at my map and in a world lit by lightning Santa Rosa was about a lunchtime's ride from Querétaro. In a daze I set forth after a breakfast of chilaquiles and somehow I made it despite my emotional blackout to Santa Rosa. I gathered myself and looked for the first place to eat. I saw the first place and it was called Taquería Poo and looked for the second place to eat. It was called Ricas Tortas de Carnitas and managed to order a torta. My God! What joyous carnitas! Big hunks of pork! There were chicharrones on the side! What a place! I ate my chicharrones and they gave me more for free with fresh salsa that they had just taken out of the blender! If there is a world peace treaty to be signed, it will be done in Santa Rosa Jáuregui, 20km north of Santiago de Querétaro, Querétaro State, Mexico.
Ride, Andre. Ride! Never stop. I know you wont. I miss you dearly and I love your posts.
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